Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Mopski's y34 glori-ass

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Mopski's y34 glori-ass

    My name is Jayson, I've been floating around the forums and been to a couple of meets so I thought I should let everybody know who I am and what I'm driving.

    So... back in October I bought myself my first VIP style ride from Autoproject in Braeside.

    A Bit of a rundown on specs.
    2003 Nissan Gloria Autech Version.
    VQ30DET with a 6 spd CVT Auto Trans.
    Wheels are NAPRE JAPAN PARADISO MARTINI.
    19X8.5 +33 on the front.
    19x9.5 +33 on the read.(I think, cant remember exactly).
    Purchased the car with 68,000km on the clock.
    JIC-MAGIC coilovers.

    Special factory options.
    Rear seat center control panel(Volume + A/C settings).
    Reclining rear seats.
    Rear headliner roof mirror, map-light and clock.
    Rear door courtesy lights. (usually a red reflector.)
    Rear door glass illumination.
    Rear A/V RCA inputs.

    Plans for the car.
    Fix a driver seat where the leather has started to peel.
    Fix the rear passenger courtesy light and glass illumination.
    Replace stock speakers with something better quality.
    Bluetooth + wiring steering controls.
    Install a FMIC.
    Get the car detailed/cut and polish.
    Get some fancy/spiky wheel nuts.
    Modify the Gloria scuff panels to glow with LED's.

    That pretty much it for now, I will definitely add some more as I go.

    Here are a couple pics.




    Rear headliner roof mirror, map-light and clock.

    Rear seat center control panel(Volume + A/C settings).

    Rear A/V RCA inputs.

    Reclining rear seats buttons.

  • #2
    Nice one buddy pumped to see what happens with it

    Comment


    • #3
      Don't forget the rear climate control!
      A friend of mine who trawler through Nissan FAST said there was a scuff panel option that illuminated. I suspect it was for pre-facelift models (series 1) only, and probably limited to cedrics. But would be great to modify the Gloria ones.

      You mentioned one of the door lights wasn't working, might be worth checking the cabin fuses (next to the drivers footwell) before taking trim off and investigating further.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Leroy Peterson View Post
        Don't forget the rear climate control!
        A friend of mine who trawler through Nissan FAST said there was a scuff panel option that illuminated. I suspect it was for pre-facelift models (series 1) only, and probably limited to cedrics. But would be great to modify the Gloria ones.

        You mentioned one of the door lights wasn't working, might be worth checking the cabin fuses (next to the drivers footwell) before taking trim off and investigating further.
        Haha, I did put in 'Rear seat center control panel(Volume + A/C settings).'
        I have a rough concept of what I want to do, but not sure on how to go about it, id rather find a spare set of scuff panel trims and hack those up, rather than my factory ones.

        Had a check through all my cabin fuses and they are all working fine, also I attempted to translate the fuse box sticker. Not 100% sure if they are correct.


        The switch for the light is in the latch itself, when I close the latch on the drivers side(which works) with a screw driver it turns the roof/glass and courtesy lights off. Its just a matter of pulling the door skin off and seeing where its not getting power.

        Comment


        • #5
          Car looks sick man, keen to see it in person

          Comment


          • #6
            After a long and overdue 4 months wait to get my car back from the panel shop, shes finally home which has reminded me why I fell in love with the car to begin with, its like love at first sight... again!

            BUT, there is a list of maintenance that needs attending to.
            Coilovers: The JIC Magics that came with my car knocked from day one, asuming the seals are gone as they move a bit when pushed and pulled I've spoken to a few suspension places that rebuild coilovers and they don't really want to touch it as they don't want to deal with spare parts from Japan or the US. So i've been looking at Bc's.

            Front Bearings: With that being said the hub needs to come off the coilovers as they are a coilover with a spindle welded on, I will be replacing bearings as well while i'm there.

            Rotors and pads: Been researching part numbers and such for rotors and pads. Found out they are the same measurements as C34 Stagea and E51 Elgrand, so that's a win. These don't need doing just yet, but I will be doing them soon anyways.

            Also another problem i've run into is the rim touching the coilover lockring, the rim and coilover should be static with each other but turn hard right the right hand side rim just touches the lock ring, enough to shave 2mm off the connecting surface, This has only happened since ive had my car back. This would make me believe that bearings are wearing out? but they aren't making any grinding/knocking noises.. hmm :S


            I think that's about it so far.

            (I tried to upload photos but i'm having trouble uploading photos more than 1MB??)
            Last edited by MOPSKI; 18-10-16, 12:10 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              might be best resize your pics via website or program, or use image hosting like photobucket (which is shit, but does the job).

              interesting about the wheel rub... what size/offset are they again?
              how did you managed to confirm rotors were same as C34 and E51?

              Comment


              • #8
                Getting shit done mate! Was good to see the old girl again the other night!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yer, I'll have to do that, I just realized they would be 4k photos that's probably why.

                  Rims are 19x8.5 +33, they've always rubbed, but only when going up a driveway too fast, now they are hitting when I'm turn right at 20km/h+, it stops rubbing when I'm crawling around a corner. Which would believe me to think that either bearings are worn, or I possibly have a hairline crack which flexes under load, this only happens on the drivers side, the passenger side also rubs, but nowhere near as much.

                  As for the rotors I had them off the car and measured them, and crossed referenced measurements with DBA's pdf catalog found here: http://www.dba.com.au/main/?wpdmdl=4535

                  Measurements on my rotors were:
                  290mm diameter
                  49mm overall height
                  28mm thickness (pad to pad)
                  68mm center hole diameter


                  Which matches C34 and E51 according to DBA.

                  Yer its good to have her back, but maintenance really needs to be taken care of.

                  Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Great to see that its back on the road bud!

                    Interesting with the rubbing. Whats the Disk offset rating? If they are Superlow disk then they are going to rub on the front most likely.
                    If your not sure stick up a photo of the markings inside the wheel
                    Silver 2001 Lexus LS430 Premium Luxury

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If the overall height is 49mm and the rotor thickness is 28mm that should mean that the rotor offset is 21mm..

                      The rim themselves are definitely 19x8.5+33

                      Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Time for offset change or spacers :P
                        Silver 2001 Lexus LS430 Premium Luxury

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Was hoping that I didnt have to change oftset, so I might have to go longer studs and spacers

                          Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by MOPSKI View Post
                            Was hoping that I didnt have to change oftset, so I might have to go longer studs and spacers
                            see how many full turns you get out of the wheel nuts without the spacer, then just chuck on a 5mm slip on spacer and see how many full turns then.

                            If you're replacing wheel studs, you might as well do the bearing while its all off...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I will be doing bearings anyway when I replace my coilovers, which have arrived, still waiting on my coilovers to come from japan.

                              As for the length of the studs, I threw on a 10mm spacer and only seemed to get 2 or 3 turns, so with a 5mm spacer it would only be an extra turn or 2 which I'm not overly comfortable with. I would like to push the wheels out 10mm anyway, I'll have to see how much clearance there will be with the new coilovers and bearings as to whether I do or not.



                              Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


                              Last edited by MOPSKI; 21-10-16, 08:59 AM.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X