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'05 Majesta

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  • '05 Majesta

    Hi all

    About a month ago I picked up a UZS186 Majesta.

    A bit of an impulse purchase, it was a $1 reserve auction that I'd added to my watchlist and forgotten about, then got a reminder an hour before it was due to close.

    I only intended to watch the bidding war at the end (I've got two other cars already), and had text a mate to bet on how much it'd go for. Well it ending up going for a bit less than either of us thought, and somehow I'd put in a bid.

    After quickly explaining to the missus what it an awesome car it will be (despite not having seen it, let alone driven it, and only fully reading the description after winning it), I sorted some flights to go pick it up.

    Anyway, this is what it looks like at the moment:





  • #2
    First thing on the agenda was removing the Lexus badging that had found its way onto the car. I think this happened on day 2 of ownership, since it was nearly midnight when I'd finished driving it home on day 1.

    Now I can almost tolerate when a Celsior has been re-badged as an LS (pretty much the same car), but it irritates me when something like a JZZ30 is re-badged (yes the body is the same, but there is no such thing as an SC250), so a USZ186 with Lexus badges = .

    I won't even dignify them with a picture. I stuck them to my garage shelving, along with the other inappropriate badges I've pulled off cars I've bought. The rear 'L' fell off the shelving overnight, and the missus' car helped it make friends with the driveway. That seemed appropriate .

    Now I need to source proper ones.

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    • #3
      Ha Gene's old car, those are my old wheels lol

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      • #4
        nice, keen to see more pics.

        what other cars do you have?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by mlracing.co.nz View Post
          Ha Gene's old car, those are my old wheels lol
          Yep sure is, I figured someone might recognise it! I found his thread on VSC after I picked it up, which helped fill in some of the blanks of what's been done and when.

          I got it from him with the wheels, exhaust tips, and fiddled height sensors. Not sure if he ever fitted a height controller, but that's in the future plans, along with SS kit for the rear. I added 30mm RCAs in the front to keep some pressure in the bags.

          The wheels are growing on me, they seemed too concaved at first, but are good for now. I do check out every new link you put in the wheels thread though haha...

          Originally posted by Leroy Peterson View Post
          nice, keen to see more pics.

          what other cars do you have?
          Yeah I have to get some sorted.

          Nothing terribly exciting as I tend to shop in the $10k bracket: An LS1 Commodore and a 2GR-FE 4WD Estima at the moment. Have mostly been a Toyota fan (although just finished a 3 year motorcycle obsession earlier this year) and had a UCF21 a couple of years ago, so sort of knew what I was getting into with the Majesta.

          Here's a pic of the UCF while you wait for Majesta pics...


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          • #6
            Car also came with a factory remote start fob.


            It was even better after I finally figured out how it worked (previous owner couldn't quite remember). There are four buttons, which my useless photo attempt doesn't really show. I'm going to write everything here, since I spent hours googling and trying out various button combinations, and it might help someone one day.

            'i' button (top): Press this to find out if your car is off or on. It sends a signal, up to about ~200 metres, then reports back with the status.
            Lock/Start button (left): This locks the car. Duh. Press it once, and same deal as above, works up to about 200 metres, transmits the command, then reports back to tell you if it was successful or not.
            Unlock/Stop button (right): Opposite of the lock button.
            'E' button (bottom): Press this once to arm the start/stop system, or hold it down to access the remote's settings.

            To start the car: Press E once, then quickly press Lock. It'll transmit some stuff, the car will do it's thing and start up. But only if all doors are closed, trans is in park, and hand/foot park brake is on. It'll run until either:
            a) you open a door
            b) you send a stop command
            c) the timer runs out (adjustable)
            d) it runs out of gas

            To stop the car: Press E once, then quickly press Unlock.

            Change settings: Hold E button until you've held it long enough (I think it beeps). Then press the i button to scroll through the settings, and the Lock/Unlock buttons to alter settings. There are four settings to play with:
            Toggle backlight between Green and Orange
            Turn Backlight off
            Turn remote button beeps off
            Change engine run time, from between 10 minutes to 60 minutes.


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            • #7
              The downside of having factory remote start - your car probably came from a cold part of Japan, and might display the effects of that. At least that's what I'm blaming.

              At very slow speed I had a bit of brake squeal. Mostly I've cured brake squeal by sanding down the leading edge of the pads, as it's often just gas buildup right behind the edge. Having a brick house is handy here, as you don't even have to get the sandpaper out.

              I figured it was the driver's side rear making the noise, so started there. Pulled the pads out and took the edge off them. Then went to slide the caliper and one slider wouldn't move. Looked at the pads, looked at the disc, looks like it'd been happening (not happening?) for a while.

              I tried to rotate the the caliper, sprayed every kind of CRC, WD40, etc into the slider. Smacked it with a hammer. Smacked it with a bigger hammer, using a socket extension. No go. The sliders screw into the caliper bracket, and it was jammed good into the caliper. Twisting it partly loosened the slider thread in the bracket, but only because that was over tightening it first. I figured even if I got it loose and out, I wouldn't trust it not to jam again.

              So I gave up and went to bed (it was midnight by then), leaving the stupid car jacked up and in pieces.



              The next day I attached my mullet wig and drove the Commodore to work. At least it didn't have one annoying and erroneous noise. It had a f*&k tonne of them.

              I'd only ever seen one other Majesta in town, let alone any at the wreckers. After a morning of work/parts research, I discovered that 180 Majestas and GRX12# Mark Xs use the same rear caliper. Heaps of Mark Xs around, including some at the wreckers. Has to be off a Mark X with vented rear discs. Apparently seizing rear calipers is a problem for them too, but luckily they had 6 of them there, and one of them still had a good R/R one on a car. $150 later I had a smoothly sliding caliper, bracket, and some near new pads. Actually that reminds me, I should replace the whole lot.

              I didn't have any bleed issues, but had clamped the brake line to stop any air entering. I'm pretty sure the brake pump kicked in even while the car was off, and one pump of the pedal shoved a decent amount of fluid through. Either way, no more squeal.

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              • #8
                Hmm interesting to know about the brakes getting stuck.. also didn't know about the remote start, rad!

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                • #9
                  If the brakes are feeling good then you probably don't have this issue, more a FYI. Techstream has a ABS Air purge utility that opens all the ABS solenoids which then allows any trapped air to get into the lines and therefore gets pushed out using standard bleeding method. I bled mine with a couple of bottles of fluid and still had a soft pedal until i worked that out, i did however completely empty the lines.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mlracing.co.nz View Post
                    Hmm interesting to know about the brakes getting stuck.. also didn't know about the remote start, rad!
                    Yeah it seemed odd, the rubber boot on the slider was still intact, and it must only happen to the lower slider since that fits into a dead-end part of the caliper.



                    The remote start is pretty cool, I kept it in my pocket and convinced a couple of people that the car has voice activated starting lol...

                    Originally posted by DL_Unlimited View Post
                    If the brakes are feeling good then you probably don't have this issue, more a FYI. Techstream has a ABS Air purge utility that opens all the ABS solenoids which then allows any trapped air to get into the lines and therefore gets pushed out using standard bleeding method. I bled mine with a couple of bottles of fluid and still had a soft pedal until i worked that out, i did however completely empty the lines.
                    Thanks, that's good info. I always like to do a full brake fluid change on anything I buy, and getting it right through the ABS system would be nice.

                    I have a copy of Techstream but haven't tried it with the Crown yet, but probably leave a full ABS flush to the professionals.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Better catch up on what I've been up to with this car:

                      Regassed the boot gas struts, and found some new bonnet struts on Aliexpress for ~$40/pair delivered.

                      Replaced the battery after one of the kids left an interior light on in the back. From memory I stuffed an NS70LMF in it, now turns over faster than a Ford Explorer on a set of Firestones.

                      Added an auxiliary input to the stereo using the 6 pin plug to 3x RCAs (Aliexpress again - $10). Am keen on one of the Yatour bluetooth with A2DP, but spending $100 on Chinese stuff is a bit tougher.

                      Chucked new rear tyres on - replaced 255/35 with 275/35 to better match the sidewall height of the fronts (235/40). Two things wrong with the change: The tyres now sometime kiss the guards, and the extra width at the back seems to have upset the balance of the car. I think I've got the following options:
                      Go wider at the front (will only add to the rub issues)
                      Put a big ass sway bar in the rear
                      Use up the tyres and go back to 255/35
                      Add more camber in the rear - will reduce contact patch and reduce rubbing, although I like matching camber front and rear and it's already uneven
                      Get 20s (doesn't solve much but probably be where I end up)

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                      • #12
                        Also finally replaced the front badge. It came fitted with a fairly low quality Lexus badge.

                        Apparently no other Toyota uses the same badge, and it was going to be ~$60 for a new one.




                        Turns out the '09-'13 Corolla uses the same size badge, but with slight different fitting bits.

                        Last edited by Derp; 22-01-18, 08:30 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Best thing about today: I managed to figure out the locking/unlocking setup for the doors, and how to program the factory options.

                          You can turn on or off these 4 options:
                          Lock all doors when taken out of Park (I left this off - sometimes I sit it in N while waiting for people after starting it)
                          Unlock all doors when put into Park (I turned this on)
                          Lock all doors at 20kmh (I left
                          Unlock all doors when driver's door is opened within 10 seconds of car shutting off (I turned this on - although it kinda doubles up on option 2)

                          Anybody interested in this info lol?

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                          • #14
                            Hm how do you turn off the locking doors while driving thing ?

                            Also lol @ Firestone and Ford Explorer reference

                            If you find a good sway bar I'd be interested to know, when I had a look I could only find one brand from Japan that had them

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by mlracing.co.nz View Post
                              Hm how do you turn off the locking doors while driving thing ?

                              Also lol @ Firestone and Ford Explorer reference

                              If you find a good sway bar I'd be interested to know, when I had a look I could only find one brand from Japan that had them

                              Hop in the car, close the door, make sure dome light is in 'Door' position, and all other doors are closed.
                              Turn the ignition on, and within 10 seconds:
                              - Shift the lever into N (or anything other than Park apparently)
                              - Hold down the unlock button on the driver's door central locking thing for 5 seconds
                              - Release the unlock button

                              The car should immediately lock/unlock to confirm you've made a change.
                              And now your doors won't lock when you get to 20kmh.
                              Please send $1 to Happy Dude, 742 Evergreen terrace.
                              Or if someone can give me a maps disc so I don't get 'insert disc' error


                              Yeah when I thought about stuff turning over fast, that's the first thing that popped into my head!


                              Was it the Cusco bar you found? 198 311 B19 - 19mm, (from 15mm?) 187% stiffer

                              From my research the Mark Xs and all S180 and S200 Crowns shared the same rear bar (have to re-tick the Japan option):
                              http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=48812-30380&mU=on&mE=on&mJ=on&mG=on

                              Although their were two part numbers, and this link (re-tick japan):
                              http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=...J=on&mG=on
                              reckons the 07-14 ISF also uses the same bar, which should open up the options?

                              Potentials?
                              http://ultraracing.my/ecatalog/index...tabilizer-bar/
                              https://www.sikky.com/product/isf-is...rear-sway-bar/
                              Last edited by Derp; 23-01-18, 07:30 PM.

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