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HY34 - 'Tidy Executive'

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  • Originally posted by Adam View Post
    SP3s are cool!!
    Make sure whoever you get to buy them for you contacts the seller and asks for a price without tyres as that price includes new tyres in the size you select. Thats if you are getting them sent by air.
    They look like 19s with step lips. So will be an 18" face. Where did you see the thing about 20? I cant see it in the ad
    I dunno, just had it in my head 19" could have been the centers. you're right though.

    I found out getting brand new from Work wouldn't be that much more expensive (wholesale in Jap) and would get choice in sizing, fittings, centrecaps + center colour. and I can wait till later in the year for when I actually wanted to buy wheels.... so I will wait.

    I really do want the Fabulous wheels though and being 2pc theyre not badly priced.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Leroy Peterson View Post
      I dunno, just had it in my head 19" could have been the centers. you're right though.

      I found out getting brand new from Work wouldn't be that much more expensive (wholesale in Jap) and would get choice in sizing, fittings, centrecaps + center colour. and I can wait till later in the year for when I actually wanted to buy wheels.... so I will wait.

      I really do want the Fabulous wheels though and being 2pc theyre not badly priced.
      as long as you dont want meister s1 3p they are generally cheap.
      If I was going to buy new works again Id consider Vs xx. They look good on anything!!

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Adam View Post

        as long as you dont want meister s1 3p they are generally cheap.
        If I was going to buy new works again Id consider Vs xx. They look good on anything!!
        depends on what you define as cheap!
        I learned today that SP3's only come in step lip, so I need 20's so the centre clear the brakes. That, plus add a few optionals and the price starts to rise... i think the added expense over the Fabulous wheels will probably come back in the re-sale price. Do I plan to sell these wheel eventually? i guess so. If I ever sell the car or part out or just want to try something different.
        Looking at SP5's and offsets are little different and harder to get dish out of. The TF1's are a bit of a risk for brake clearance...
        since new wheels will be at least 1-2 months to order, i should get the process going soon to have them before christmas. still havent locked in either models lol

        Comment


        • If you are after works in particular. Go to fujicorporation.com and request a quote (they do english as well) with and without shipping. They have a campaign on works at the moment. They could be as cheap as 35000yen each brand new for 19s

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Adam View Post
            If you are after works in particular. Go to fujicorporation.com and request a quote (they do english as well) with and without shipping. They have a campaign on works at the moment. They could be as cheap as 35000yen each brand new for 19s
            Thanks, i checked out the website and they dont have any SSR Professor models on offer. They did have super cheap wheels for the pulsar though! but theres no option to pick the offset.

            I contact JDMconcept for information on colours (since theres like a bajillion different shades of silver) and they say the SP3 is discontinued... must be replaced by the SP5.

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            • So at Toyota Winterfest a while ago, I took the Gloria out and noticed it was bogging down on boost a bit. Thought I could hear air escaping when driving through a tunnel, so thought maybe a loose hose clamp or slipped off hose.
              Few weeks later I went over the intake side and found a few loose clamps, took the car out that night and things were ok for about 10mins. Then I noticed it wasnt liking boost again, then accelerator wasn't making the car rev, then I noticed quite a lot of fumes coming out the back. Luckily I was near home, so pulled in a few streets away. On the journey home the car stalled and wouldnt start again. Thankfully the rest of the trip was downhill, so got it out the front of my place with only a little bit of pushing.
              I feared the worst and would deal with it the next day.

              Next day I hadnt touched anything, it started, drove it up the driveway and parked it in the garage. Huge relief that it wasnt a catastrophic failure, but seemed to be down a cylinder. Could smell it running rich in the garage. Doing some reading, and I always knew that the M35's had temperamental AFM's that would prevent the car from running or throw it into limp mode. So did some googling and purchased a new AFM. Not OEM because the M35 guys say that the part had changed since the cars came out and the newer OEM replacements would die quicker than aftermarket replacements. (there heaps of info on SAU/google).

              This is the old unit:


              and this is the new unit I got off ebay (wasn't a cheapy though)




              Chucked it in, started the car. Again, it was like it was missing a cylinder (but not as bad as I've had a misfire before when the Yellow Jacket coilpacks were giving me issues). Unburnt fuel was couching out the exhaust.
              (this pic was after I mopped all the fuel up)



              Now this whole issue has never generated an engine light, or any errors on the Nav system. But I dont have a scan tool, so cant check for error codes, but that would make life a lot easier. I might read up on how the M35 guys get their error lights on the dash, see if that works.
              I'm also not sure if the errors needed to be cleared/reset when changing the AFM. doubt it.
              Also I'm pretty sure the car isnt in limp mode, I've had gearbox limp mode before (3rd gear all day, erryday) and it was in first when driving around and up the driveway.

              Next step is to take the intake side apart, check/replace the coilpacks (got the Yellow Jackets lying around) and start diagnosing. But this takes time. and time I dont have. So sadly the car is going to sit here for a while

              I got a large box of accessories from Japan I'm eager to mount, so I'll share once its all fitted.
              Also got this bad boy second hand (LEDs work, woo)



              It mounts behind a numberplate and glows. Looks pretty cool.
              Christmas break from work will be spent on the lighting and interior. Got lots of shit on my To Do List. Need to get it done. Last year was 4 days in the garage doing brakes and fixing the pulsar. This year will be at a table soldering lol.

              Comment


              • Thats no good!
                I thought it was going to be an update with new wheels arriving!!

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                • Originally posted by Adam View Post
                  Thats no good!
                  I thought it was going to be an update with new wheels arriving!!
                  nah, not yet. Advertising my current wheels, will probably put on facebook eventually.
                  And still working on the triumph.
                  Havent done my tax return yet either lol.

                  All those things will fund new wheels.

                  Comment


                  • Look forward to seeing the LED number plate part installed

                    Very AutoMesse style hehe

                    Silver 2001 Lexus LS430 Premium Luxury

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                    • Accessorize









                      New DAD front table and a few optionals + extras.
                      New Blackwoodgrain II finish. Violet Swarovski ring kit, regular shape coasters + lighting kit, crocodile skin cut-out and coasters. Very happy with the item
                      Also got an Ashtray bottle thingy with the leather DAD monogram, and selling my too-big Sunshade to Summers and bought a smaller DAD suction cup sun shade thingy.
                      Missed out on a second-hand DAD umbrella oh well.

                      Over the Christmas break I plan to execute operation "Ultimate Purple", installing all my purple lighting gear and connecting it via a switch(es). That way can turn everything on without needing parkers on, and can turn it off when not needed.
                      Last edited by Leroy Peterson; 01-11-17, 10:45 AM.

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                      • If anyone is flicking through this threead and sick of seeing dead image links: theres an add-on called Photobucket Embed Image Fix. i had planned to fix all the links, but it aint gonna happen anytime soon.

                        Big updates coming soon... things escalated this week with some rare opportunities arising across the Pacfic ocean. stay tuned!

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                        • What escalated? Wheels?!?
                          The table looks awesome. I saw one similar in a D.A.D shop the other day. Who new they had proper shops in shopping centres! I was going to buy one but they were all order made. The seat covers also looked really good in real life.

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                          • yeah the DAD wooly seat covers are mad. Wanted so much stuff from those shops got a shirt at least lol
                            (dont mind the awkward pose haha)


                            I would share pics of what I've bought... but thats boring. Some will arrive next week, some is coming via sea post, so will be a while.

                            Comment


                            • I should be focusing on the Triumph (its almost done! sort of lol) but Gloria has caught my attention recently.

                              After the fuel/richness issues... I took apart the whole intake side, replaced all the Spark plugs (they were pretty caked up from running really rich) and found a hose clamp that was tight, but wasn't sealing the hose properly. So I think this was the boost leak that caused the richness which possibly caused lack of spark.

                              Took it down the CMS in Seaford to put it on the dyno and check fuel mixture anyway, for peace of mind. So it runs really rich when the foot is planted, apparently a standard japanese thing, mainly to do with differences in fuel quality. Shane was saying its fine when cruising and at idle. I had a new O2 sensor laying around, so he chucked it in.
                              Shane has all sorts of ECU tools and software, so he was able to do an error code read and there was only something up from when I had been playing with the AFM (unplugged it while car was running) and he cleared that, and no other errors were up.
                              I asked him to do some power runs on dyno and see how it goes. 147rwkw. It feels faster, I swear :P dat rwd auto launch yo.
                              Because so much fuel is dumped when accelerating, Shane took fuel out of a spot at a certain rpm using his scan tools (which can tune the car, but only while the tool is plugged in) showed me on a dyno print-out how the car gains 20kw with a less rich mixture. So there is potential for 20kw or more, across the whole rev range with just less fuel (and not even leaning out). Of course, then I'm thinking +180rwkw is possible winding boost above 11psi plus re-doing fuel maps and add timing too haha.
                              Anyway, he has sent the cars ECU logs to some businesses he deals with who write their own software for Japanese cars. So fingers crossed we might be able to flash the existing ECU or get a new Nistune unit (Nistune for a VQ30DET daughterboard for Y33, not Y34, which I think has to do with VCT/Neo engine).

                              I bought some exciting things from Japan, but they are coming via sea freight so I need to be patient...
                              In the mean time, I'm delving head first into 3pc wheels. and its frustrating as fuck.

                              Lesson 1: you never know if wheels are going to fit until you fit them. (mainly for brake clearance, this is an issue if you have Big Brake Kit).
                              Lesson 2: measure your setup and compare to willtheyfit.com results.

                              Originally I was set on re-lipping/re-barreling my Gral's because I like them, I knew they cleared the brakes (sort of) and I only wanted to go to 19's. I would have just bought a new set to my dream specs, but theyre discontinued. Buying new lips and barrels for wheels is expensive, so I thought fuck it, I'll buy a secondhand send of wheels, swap what I can over, then assemble a Frankenstein set of wheels with the leftovers, rather than just being left with the old lips/barrels.

                              I found some aggressively sized Bugels in Toyota sizes. I suspected they would come very close to the struts, and I was right. I also assumed they would be in pretty good condition, which they weren't. Oh well, they weren't expensive (considering how much good condition + good sized stuff generally sells for on YJ).

                              19x10+21 high disk, 19x11+21 low disk, step lips.


                              You could tell they were on an aggressive setup from the barrel damage and the amount of wheel alignments the front had done




                              But dat +100mm dish

                              Comment


                              • I do really like blacked-out Bugel's, but brake clearance was always going to be an unknown and they're probably a pain to clean lol

                                I put them on the car and lowered them on wood to see how they sat.

                                Front:


                                The high disk means it has less dish than my current setup and more spoke-to-brake clearance, but the lower offset helps shift the 3pc join section away from the caliper (which is the issue on my current setup). Sadly the wheels touch the struts with the wheel nuts done up. Could just spacer them off, but them I would need to add more camber and then they would sit back on the struts. So it is possible to run 10" wide fronts on Y34, but certainly wouldnt be ideal. This is with 2 degrees camber or so.

                                Rear:




                                11" rears are beastly. But again, do the wheel nuts up and theres only a few mm between strut and wheel. Thats with 4 degrees camber or so. If the suspension compresses then they go into the strut. The low disk also hits the rear 4 pots. Oh well.

                                The new wheels have both the same size barrel width, which is so annoying because if one of them was slightly smaller I could just swap them and then only need 2 new barrels! ergh. So both are 7" width barrels, so I'll need to get 6.5" or less. The fronts probably would be better with new barrels anyway, so oh well.
                                Its also a bit of an unknown if the Gral centres will fit into the Bugel lips/barrels, but they're Leon Hardiritt's from the same era and it all looks very similar, so fingers crossed.

                                The plan:
                                - Buy 2x 6" barrels and 2x 6.5" barrels from threepiece.us
                                - disassemble new wheels
                                - get disassembled lips repaired, polished and clear coated (cbf with chrome and cbf polishing constantly)
                                - disassemble old wheels
                                - Assemble Frankenstein 18x8.5 18x9.5 Bugels
                                - get hardware purple anodized
                                - Assemble repaired lips, new barrels with Gral centres
                                - Fit tyres, small tuck + camber
                                - Happy Days

                                So the end product would be 19x9 +14.7 19x10.5 +14.7 step lips. BUT changing the centers of a different offset and disk will change the offset, so who knows what it will be afterwards.

                                Thats the plan for the next few months. Plan to take the wheels apart myself, following online instructions and help from friends who've done it before.
                                Its a lot of fucking effort for 19" wheels that will still need a 5mm slip on spacer to clear the front brakes haha. but more dish and should look mean.
                                Last edited by Leroy Peterson; 20-02-18, 01:58 PM.

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